1. Check the Rim Tape
First check whether the rim tape on the wheel is intact. If there are any obvious tears or holes, you need to replace the tape.
When buying tape, choose one that is 2–3 mm wider than the internal width of your rim.
Example: If your rim’s internal width is 22 mm, you should use 25 mm rim tape.
Apply two full wraps around the rim. That should do the job.
2. Mount the Tire Dry
Install the tire without sealant first.
It will usually feel tighter than a standard clincher tire, but the good news is that you can safely use tire levers, because there is no inner tube you could pinch or damage.
3. Seat the Beads
Inflate and deflate the tire 2–3 times.
The goal is to help the tire beads and the rim bed pair up properly. When that happens you will hear a few loud popping sounds. It might be a bit scary, but it only means the beads are seating correctly.
Tips:
a. Fast airflow helps
Air needs to go in quickly to push the tire into place. Many people use compressors, but you don’t necessarily need one. A good track pump is usually enough.
Remove the valve core so air can flow in more easily. Inflate the tire, then deflate and inflate again to make sure the bead is seated properly. Finally reinstall the valve core so the tire can hold pressure.
b. Hang the wheel
Hang the wheel on a door knob so the tire isn’t resting on the floor. This makes it easier for the bead to find its place evenly around the rim.
4. First Leak Test
Dry tubeless tires WILL leak. That’s normal.
So why test them now?
Because there are “good” leaks and “bad” leaks.
Good leaks will be sealed later by the sealant. Bad leaks won’t. We want to identify any bad leaks before adding sealant.
You can test for leaks in two ways:
a. Soapy water method
Mix dish soap and water in a spray bottle and spray around:
- the bead/rim interface
- the spoke holes
- the valve
If bubbles appear, you’ve found a leak.
b. Bathtub method
Fill the bathtub with about 15–20 cm of water.
Hold the wheel vertically with the valve at the 6 o’clock position. Submerge the rim and watch for bubbles. Slowly rotate the wheel and keep watching. If bubbles appear, note their location.
5. Evaluate the Leaks
Good leaks
Leaks around the rim edge or the base of the valve are usually fine. Sealant will take care of them. You can proceed.
Bad leaks
Leaks from the spoke holes mean the rim tape isn’t sealing properly. You need to remove the tire and retape the rim, then start again.
If bubbles appear from the valve core, the core is faulty. Replace it and repeat the leak test.
6. Add the Sealant
Time to add sealant.
First deflate the tire. (Keeping the wheel hanging on the door knob helps the bead stay seated.)
Some people partially remove the tire and pour sealant into a pocket inside the tire. I didn’t do this. It works, but it looks unnecessarily messy.
Instead, inject the sealant through the valve.
Most sealants come with an injector tube that fits snugly onto a Presta valve.
Steps:
- Deflate the tire
- Remove the valve core
- Attach the injector tube
- Squeeze the sealant into the tire
Clean and easy.
For a 700×32 tire, you need about 60 ml (2 oz) of sealant.
If your bottle doesn’t have measurement markings, here’s a little trick:
My bottle had 8 oz of sealant. I turned it upside down and marked four equal sections on the bottle with a Sharpie. That way I knew exactly how much to squeeze out to get 2 oz.
Simple and effective.
7. Inflate Again
After adding the sealant, inflate the tire again.
Keep the wheel hanging so the valve sits at the 4 or 8 o’clock position.
Avoid the 6 o’clock position, because sealant could pool around the valve base.
Pump the tire up. You can even inflate it close to the tire’s maximum PSI. Higher pressure helps with sealing during the next step.
8. Activate the Sealant
Now it’s time to make the sealant do its job.
Shake the wheel and rotate it in different directions — horizontally, vertically, whatever works. Have fun with it.
Then lay the wheel on the floor for about 15 minutes. You can gently rock it occasionally.
After that, flip the wheel to the other side and repeat.
The goal is to let the sealant seal the “good” leaks you discovered earlier
9. Second Leak Test
Repeat the leak test (soapy water or bathtub).
If there are no bubbles, congratulations — you’re done.
If there are still a few small leaks, don’t panic yet. Removing everything and starting over is frustrating.
Instead:
- shake the wheel again
- rotate it a bit more
- repeat the leak test
Often the system seals itself after a bit more sealant movement.
10. Spin the Wheels
Put the wheels on the bike (ideally on a stand) and spin them for a while. This helps distribute the sealant even further.
11. Set Final Tire Pressure
Adjust tire pressure according to your system weight and riding preference.
Wait 2–4 hours and check the pressure again.
Newly set up tubeless tires will usually lose pressure a bit faster at first.
- Losing 4–5 psi over a few hours is normal
- Losing 20 psi is not
12. Go for a Test Ride
Take the bike out for a short test ride close to home.
Riding helps distribute the sealant further and stabilizes the system.
13. You’re Done
Enjoy your tubeless setup.
This guide has been written and kindly contributed by London Dynamo member Otto Pecz. Thank you Otto.